Matthew Williamson for Bvlgari

On past posts you could read between the lines, I wasn´t totally convinced about Matthew Williamson´s work. Well, I meant only for his H&M collection, since I think his presentations on fashion weeks are absolutely great as are these purses-wristlets capsule collection for Bvlgari, which makes you want to gobble them up.

Love how Matthew has laid out his signature prints.

He reminds me a teacher from college; those with sky-high ego that think are hot as hell.

Would be Matthew himself who drafts those wonderful sketches?

En posts anteriores, he dejado entrever que no me gustaba mucho que digamos, el trabajo de Matthew Williamson, me refería únicamente para la colección de H&M, pues las presentaciones dentro de las semanas de la moda, me parecen geniales, como lo es esta contribución con Bvlgari, donde podemos apreciar piezas casi para comértelas;

Me gusta mucho como ha colocado las impresiones. Mirror-like.

¿Será el mismo Matthew el que haga los increíbles bocetos, o será un ilustrador?

El me recuerda a un profesor de la universidad, de esos que creen que están buenísimos de la muerte, con un ego que se lo pisan.

Karolina Kurkova i-D October.

As the legendary Phoenix, Karolina Kurkova rises from her ashes, after many NYFW runway walks, Josh Olins takes her back to avant-garde fashion spreads for i-D´s October issue. We hope to have her for a while.

How long has it been since this girl is on the spotlight?

Her eyebrows are just astounding.

Como el Fenix Karolina Kurkova resurge de sus cenizas; después de verla en varias presentaciones en Nueva York,  Josh Olins la trae de regreso a las editoriales de vanguardia, en esta ocasión para i-D. ojalá y tengamos Karolina para rato, cuánto tiempo lleva ya esta mujer  activa?

Las cejas son una pasada.

Looking Forward

PEDRO LOURENÇO

His first collection in Paris Fashion Week was not one of the most coveraged but one of the most applauded and praised by critics. Not bad for the then 19 y/o recently graduated Brazilian student. He is taking the fashion world by storm actually, it’s been compared with his fellow peers; his subtle work to the Celine impassibility, and even to Nicolas Ghesquière and his master structure, (he´s good, but not that good, how they dare?). In all, he is so talented; he’s got the support, and the most important: a huge bunch of green bucks, I mean, DEBUT on Paris Fashion Week? The least welcoming FW for newcomer designers?

C´mon.
Any way, we love him.

Su primera colección en Paris Fashion Week, no fue un éxito en las revistas sin embargo si que lo fue en las críticas. Nada mal para un entonces recien graduado de 19 años. Pedro esta entrando muy duro a la industria, ha sido comparado con algunos de sus colegas, como Phoebe Philo y su impasibilidad en Celine, y hasta con el mismo Nicolas Ghesquière y su estructura arquitectónica, (OK, es bueno, pero no tan bueno como para compararlo con Nicolas, ¿cómo se atreven?). En fin, El chico es talentoso, tiene apoyo, y lo mas importante: un buen fajo de billetes; pues a su juicio: ¿Debut en Paris Fashion Week? El FW que menos acoge, incluso renuente a nuevos talentos? Por favor…

Le deseamos un montón de suerte, Nos encanta!

BALENCIAGA

After the London swing statement from fall, one never knows what to expect from this visionaire that has made Balenciaga become one of the most outsider and garde-forward-looking collections every season; his street vibe mixed with the extremely Parisian chicness always make the Guesquière´s collections  go further to a higher level, than just another presentation.

Balenciaga makes a statement of what´s next, never following what´s on-trend, since those runways are the trend.

Después de su claro mensaje del swing londinense para otoño, uno nunca sabe que esperar de este visionario que ha hecho que las colecciones de Balenciaga sean de las más outsiders, de vanguardia y propositivas cada temporada. Su vibra urbana entremezclada con ese chic parisino, hacen que las colecciones de Guesquière se acerquen a otro nivel mas, que el de una simple pasarela.

Balenciaga indica que es lo siguiente, nunca sigue las tendencias pues Balenciaga es la tendencia.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN BY SARAH BURTON

From all, I can’t wait to gobble up this one, the Sarah’s examination hasn´t been capped off quite yet. Her upcoming spring collection is just the beginning of the master thesis which is going to be kept under close critics scrutiny -and I dare to say this collection will be the most expected from Paris Fashion Week- .

She is great, not suffice for the blank McQueen has left on Paris fashion week, which I’m afraid, will be so hard to fill. Let´s see what she has to show us, I´ll analyze what she has unearthed from past collections, as I did in my very first post -and also fathom which her signature could be, you know, the recipe for a Burton’s mash-up. I’m so anticipated and a little afraid from what could happen to Sarah, I hope everything is doing well, and it will!

She won’t let us down, ok?

She is not Estella Arch and Lindsay Lohan.

Yo creo que de todas las colecciones que vienen, ésta es la que quiero ver ya. La prueba de Sarah aún no ha terminado, su colección resort fue solamente una probada de su tesis, la cual próximamente estará bajo la escrupulosa lupa de críticos, y me atrevo a decir que su pasarela es la más esperada en París.

Ella me parece genial, no suficiente para llenar el vacio que ha dejado McQueen.

Veremos que nos muestra, aquí analizaremos que ha desenterrado de pasadas colecciones, como lo hice en mi primer post, también descubrir cual es su sello personal, ustedes saben, la receta para un puré a la Burton.

Estoy muy emocionado y un poco temeroso por lo que pueda suceder, espero que todo salga bien… y saldrá bien!

Por supuesto que no nos decepcionará, ok?

Que no es la Lohan ni Estrella Arch juntas!

Givenchy:

After watching the extremely touching last couture collection, inspired on Frida´s pain, Givenchy is another one of the collections I really want to see.

The history behind Ricardo Tisci makes him like a soap opera character. Now we are the audience watching how unravels this endless happy ending.

For those who doesn´t know the plot, I´m posting it soon.

Después de ver la extremadamente conmovedora colección de alta costura, inspirada en el dolor de la pintora Mexicana Frida Kahlo, Givenchy es otra colección que me entusiasma ver.La historia tras Ricardo Tisci, lo hace un personaje propio de una telenovela, nosotros por cierto, espectadores  de cómo se desarrolla el nunca terminar de un final feliz.

Para aquellos que no conocen el drama ;) lo postearé muy pronto.


Victor and Rolf.

These guys take a such a simple concept and get it into the highest level ever possible, resulting in an amazing showstopper clothes, that rather than a runway those deserve to be on art exhibitions.

their shows are like live concerts, every season is like the "new tour".

Estos señores siempre toman un concepto simple y traspasan con el límites inimaginados, teniendo como resultado piezas increíbles que mas que para una pasarela, deberían estar en exhibiciones de arte, sus shows son como conciertos, cada temporada es "un nuevo tour".

Jean Charles de Castelbajac

The funniest wry-witty collections EVER.

Jeremy Scott tries to, but just Jean Chales de Castelbajac gets it!

Las colecciones más irónicas, divertidas e ingeniosas del mundo!

Jeremy Scott lo intenta, pero JC de Castelbajac lo logra!

Rodarte SS 2011

Getting their spring 2006 concept about redwoods dusted off, the California-based sisters Laura and Kate seem to be translating their personal reality into showstopper clothes.

After the unfortunate MAC collaboration end, where parental watchdogs groups and some freak bloggers like the frisky, didn’t stop dragging the girls across the coals, just for having something to post about, using the excuse of  the never-released nail polish collection´s names: Quinceañera, Fantasma, y no se que de Juárez... were against the basic ethic and moral principles. Any way, lady Luck smiles at them again. It even seems like everything they touch turns into gold as some looks itself from their last marvelous collection: Rodarte´s presentation was one of the most exciting from NYFW; everything was just perfect, clothes matched exactly with the story Mulleavys wanted to tell: California Girl, was one of the collection´s keywords and it wasn´t exactly what everybody thought about… not the most known stereotype from Californian tacky girl, with extreme orange tan in a hot pink bikini, not at all, but a humble, and a subtle one, as always looking back to their American roots.

The silhouette came in sections with tired dresses and skirts and layers of pieces perfectly combined. The brand´s signature once again stood out on calculated wrapped fabrics, tattered dresses, tousled hair and a brownish unexpected color palette; this season its been full of 30´s 40´s 50´s 70´s and 90´s it´s the decade spring in fact!; but seventies for sure wins by a mile to be the true-on-trend one, this collection was kind of nineteen century mixed with seventies though, and... Redwoods? Nicole Phelps from style.com left an open question about what does a Ming vase dress had to do with redwoods?

Well, when Being inspired in your upbringing like they did, it goes further than just brown shades and wood grain prints; Mulleavy sisters are gifted not just with their designer skills and their magical hands to get a beautiful dress draped, but on telling beautiful stories, so here´s my clue for Nicole: a bit wistful and nostalgic, childhood, upbringing and American roots, mixing it with California redwoods, mmm… voilá! What about little house prairie?

Really, when I first saw the show, sort of felt to be watching scenes and landscapes through their eyes, I dare to say I could see the sunlight  through tree leaves on the final gold gladiator numbers; so the Californian redwood inspiration is not just the yogi bear stealing sandwiches with a square fabric shirt amid the green wood.

They left on me the feeling they´re soon showing in Paris, since Rodarte is one the most accomplished brands today. I hope all rumors from LVMH acquisition are completely true.

My favorite piece was the huge pied de coq printed trouser.

And the grey dress with the puckered - crinkled v top tucked into the skirt, suits her very well.

Which is yours?

Nuevamente el concepto utilizado en el 2006 sobre los inmensos bosques de la secoya  Californiana, es fuente de inspiración para el dúo de diseñadoras, que al parecer,  transcriben su realidad en prendas espectaculares.

Después del fatídico desenlace con respecto a la colaboración de MAC donde organizaciones de padres y algunos frikis de internet como the friski, que con el fin de tener un post mas para su blog, no pararon de hostigar a las chicas Rodarte, usando la excusa de que los nombres de la colección de barnices para uñas, la cual nunca vio la luz: quinceañera, fantasma y no se que de Juárez…..  Iban en contra de los principios básicos de moral y ética. En fin, la suerte les sonríe nuevamente, hasta parece que todo lo que tocan se esta convirtiendo en oro, como algunos de los cambios de su última colección: El show de Rodarte fue uno de los mas emocionantes del New York Fashion Week; Todo fue simplemente perfecto, todas las prendas eran clavadas a la historia que pretendían contar. La chica Californiana, como una de las claves de la colección, y no exactamente refiriéndose a la que nos hemos imaginado, a esa horterada de piel naranja y bikini rosa fosforito, en lo absoluto, si no mas bien, a una más humilde y hasta cierto punto sutil, siempre mirando hacia sus raíces americanas.

La silueta fue presentada como si de secciones se tratase; faldas en capas, y piezas sobre piezas. El sello inconfundible de la marca sobresalió en calculados manejos de tela como si envolviesen el cuerpo, vestidos que parecen harapos, pelo desaliñado y una inesperada paleta de colores en diferentes tonos de café. Esta temporada ha estado llena de los 50´s 30´s 40´s 90´s y 70´s, es como la temporada de las décadas! Sin embargo los setentas ganan por goleada en la década- de verdad-en tendencia.

Ésta colección combina un poco del siglo XIX con la estética de finales de los 70´s, y... bosques? Nicole Phelps de Style.com cuestionó la relación de los "bosques" con algunas de las prendas, como el vestido azul con print estilo vasija china… en mi opinión, al estar inspirado en tu crianza, todo va mas allá de tonos cafés y estampados de vetas de madera; estas chicas aparte de tener magia en las manos para drapear y plegar, también tienen la habilidad de contar fantásticas historias, así que le tengo una pista a Nicole: un poco de melancolía, nostalgia, raíces americanas, secoyas, setentas….. Mmm…. Voilá!, que tal algo de "La Casa de la Pradera"?

De verdad, cuando vi la pasarela por primera vez, sentí como si pudiera ver a través de sus ojos escenas, paisajes y me atrevo a decir que hasta los rayos del sol a través de las hojas de los pinos en los últimos looks dorados de gladiador: así que el hecho de inspirarse en la secoya Californiana, no precisamente tiene que ser el oso yogui robando emparedados con una camisa a cuadros en medio del bosque.

Me han dejado la sensación de que pronto las veremos en París, tomando en cuenta que Rodarte es una de las casas de moda mas brillantes hasta ahora, espero de verdad, que, los rumores de la adquisición por parte de LVMH sean completamente ciertos.

Mi prenda favorita fue el pantalón con el maxi estampado de pata de gallo.

También el vestido gris como arrugado en la parte de arriba con la falda del mismo tono. Le queda muy bien a la chica.

Cuál es el tuyo?

New York Fashion Week Report.

There´s no better fashion week report like this one by Justin Wu.

BRAVO!

My favorite minute: 1:40

More Eniko.

A nod toward "If I could turn back time"?

The Birth Of Venus

At first glance, I thought Eniko  was in Mark Fast, at second glance I thought this is how exactly a fashionable Boticelli Birth Venus would look like; at thirth, thought how those amazing curls made me feel, wanting to write about them; but then I just wanted to write about how I love Spanish Bazaar covers.

I´m lucky to have every issue since Karmen landed the first one; and I must say, that subtle elegance with nonchalance caracterizing its editorials and photographs still scream Avedon, who got the mag to the top .

Then,after flipping through it, I knew it was an Hervé Léger LBD not by Hervé Léger.

The only thing I dont like from Bazaar, is the ridiculous section of what´s in and what´s out…. So OUT actually. This issue in fact, advices readers to pull digital printed dresses out of the closet… and now, one of the most praised London collections so far, was Mary Kantratzou´s one: ALL DIGITAL PRINTED, everything but out. So who´s out now? No one. Love the mag, that was just a note, let´s  forgive Melania, just for being so cool.

A primera vista pensé que Eniko llevaba un Mark Fast, a segunda, pensé que asi es como luciría un muy fashion nacimiento de Venus de Botticelli, después pensé en como me hacían sentir esos increíbles rizos, queriendo escribir acerca de ellos, sin embargo después simplemente he querido escribir acerca de lo mucho me que gustan las portadas españolas de Harper's Bazaar .

It was an easy one.

You´ve let me down, the answer of the quiz down bellow was: Kate Lanphear.

An easy one fellas.

Tired of Pale Hues?

Here´s the solution, the colorful Marc Jacobs SS 2011 collection, full of giant brimmed hats and girls with coddington-esque frizzy hair.

After the past season -full of shimery pale long skirts and a wistful factor that defined the entire fall collections- his ss 2011 presentation was another of his endless flashbacks: We´ve seen joyness, and happines on the seventies inspired clothes, featuring fluid net dresses, fresh missoni-like knits, and structured ornaments resemblig flowers like they were made by skillful  brush strokes, very recognizible though;  If you got the V NY issue, you´ll see the 10 page fashion spread where Lara Stone, Baptiste Giabiconi and Javier de Miguel played as Antonio López, Juan Ramos and Jerry Hall:  

So, would Mr. Jacobs -who is on cover- would be trying to introduce us Antonio, sharing a few clippings from his collection´s moodboard? Those amazing strokes seems to be made by the the 70´s Ny Icon Mr. Lopez who was partnered with Karl Lagerfeld on 70´s , and discovered Jerry Hall and Grace Jones: A typical new yorker story, don´t you thing? Like... "yeah, he lived for a few years on Warhol´s basement, hooked up with Basquiat, and he was uuhmmm…. the one who had the idea to get a horse into studio 54 with Lady Godiva on it for ms. Jagger´s birthay", love that kind of storytelling.

Marc jacobs always turn onto many inspirational directions for his own label, and the other with the L an V inscripted, he is always changing and dusting off his fashion history books to get a brand new history to tell, even  his alter-ego women suffers the metamorphosis; one day it sounds Valium Knights from Spinerette, and before you´re getting it, there are women turned into flowers, with japanese references on make up, while in LV the next season, goes back to fifties with the lady like look and "brings" curvie models back, and now, he´s forgat rounded faces again, and there are no ladies any more,  we just seen fourty girlies,  making a nod toward the venrable twelve year prostitute IRIS,  played by Jodie Foster on taxi driver in 1976.  But, is that so bad? I don´t think so, he never stucks into one and unique concept, he´s always reinventing an making research to find what could come in handy at some point, always changing the game rules, the only question is: his clients will be capable to bear his mood swings?

They have, and they will.

Aquí teneis la solucion: La colección de Marc Jacobs con pamelas gigantes y pelo a lo Grace Coddigntone.

Después una temporada  llena  de faldas largas en tonos nude, y un aire de nostalgia que definieron las

Tom Ford SS 2011

Sketches from the SS2011 collection from thecut.com

On this new media age, where everybody  knows about everything from any subject with just a pair of clicks, the information has been democratized as a natural process; Fashion is not the exception, owe to websites like style.com, the cut, and even the style section from New York Times we keep updated of every single thing  that´s on the spot: news, gossip, collections (it takes just a few minutes after the show, to watch an entire slideshow) and even fashion history. To sum: everyone who enjoys fashion, is able to get tons of  info of everything anyone wants.

Surfing on blogosphere, I´ve read so many bloggers sharing their wistful feeling, of the nostalgia from the ol´fashioned fashion sistem, where there was just a closed cilrcle that no one but them - like a young Andre Leon Talley, or the then  fashion mavin Isabella Blow-  could get into, and I must say, that nostalgia feelling, does not belong to everyone, even not for them (bloggers); since they, myself and even Tavi Gevinson would be sidelined FOR SURE, and we wouldn´t have access to the mentioned elite.

This kind of mistery made many urban fashion legends grew up and spread on past decades; one of my favorites, was that designers used to meet con Combo Lake to discuss about trends, and chat about what´s next, keeping it like top secret.

By now there´s one person that could use the word nostalgia in every sence of it: TOM FORD that, reluctant to that pin-pong game of information, decided to show his comeback collection after six years absent with less than one hundred selected people at a glamourous room: Editors, Celebrities and just one photographer : Terry Richardson, whose photos will be released until january, when the whole collection hits the stores, and magazines make SS 2011 shootings.

It says it was just great: Im not really convinced since beyonce walked with an embroidery number, and I must say she is not exactly my fashion icon, anyway I´m quite intrigued , I don´t think Tom did it this way, just to prevent conunterfeit copies, but to create expectation and give back to fashion industry that mystery halo that has been loosing its shine over time.

Let´s remember that Liya Kebede was discovered by Ford. Here she is with a super afro.
  Seventies glamour is back.

Daphne Guinness and Mr. Ford puckering at someone.

En esta era moderna, donde todo el mundo sabe de cualquier tema con solo un par de clicks, Toda la información se ha democratizado como resultado de un proceso netamente natural; la Moda por supuesto no es la excepción, ya que,  gracias a sitios como Style.com, The cut, y hasta el apartado de estilo del New York Times, estamos informados y nos mantienen actualizados al segundo de cualquier cosa por mínima que sea: noticias, cotilleos, colecciones (pasan solamente unos cuantos minutos después de la pasarela para tener acceso a ella) incluso historia de la moda.  Para resumir: cualquiera al que le guste la moda, tiene acceso a TODO.